Դիտել Մասնակից:Ani.kazs22/Ավազարկղ թ էջի աղբյուրը

{{Short description|Skirt-like undergarment, sometimes intended to show, worn under a skirt or dress}}
{{For|the modern undergarment sometimes called a "petticoat"|half slip}}
[[File:Petticoat_MET_50.10.17_CP4.jpg|thumb|American petticoat, 1855–1865]]
[[File:Whiteandpinkpetticoat.jpg|thumb|Modern petticoat|alt=Modern petticoat]]

A '''petticoat''' or '''underskirt''' is an article of [[clothing]], a type of [[undergarment]] worn under a [[skirt]] or a [[dress]]. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries.

According to the ''[[Oxford English Dictionary]]'', in current [[British English]], a petticoat is "a light loose undergarment ... hanging from the shoulders or waist". In modern [[American English|American usage]], "petticoat" refers only to a garment hanging from the waist. They are most often made of cotton, silk or [[Tulle (netting)|tulle]]. Without petticoats, skirts of the 1850s would not have the volume they were known for.<ref>{{Cite web |title=How to Put Together Cute Outfits With Skirts |url=https://classroom.synonym.com/put-together-cute-outfits-skirts-20479.html |access-date=2020-08-16 |website=classroom.synonym.com |language=en}}</ref> In historical contexts (16th to mid-19th centuries), ''petticoat'' refers to any separate skirt worn with a [[gown]], [[bedgown]], [[bodice]] or [[jacket]]; these petticoats are not, strictly speaking, underwear, as they were made to be seen. In both historical and modern contexts, ''petticoat'' refers to skirt-like undergarments worn for warmth or to give the skirt or dress the desired attractive shape.

==Terminology==
Sometimes a petticoat may be called a ''waist slip'' or ''underskirt'' (UK) or ''[[Slip (clothing)|half slip]]'' (US), with ''petticoat'' restricted to extremely full garments. A [[chemise]] hangs from the shoulders. ''Petticoat'' can also refer to a [[Slip (clothing)|full-length slip]] in the UK,<ref>''Oxford English Dictionary'' (1989) "A light loose undergarment ... hanging from the shoulders or waist"</ref> although this usage is somewhat old-fashioned.

== History ==
{{See also|History of Western fashion}}
[[File:Woman's_Petticoat_LACMA_M.63.55.3.jpg|thumb|Silk [[embroidery]] on petticoat, Portugal, {{circa|1760}}]]
[[File:Washer Woman skirt and jacket by Sybil Connolly.jpg|thumb|Washer woman petticoat inspired skirt and jacket by Sybil Connolly]]
In the 14th century, both men and women wore undercoats called "petticotes".<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |url=https://archive.org/details/dictionaryofcost0000wilc/page/267 |title=The Dictionary of Costume |last=Wilcox |first=Ruth Turner |publisher=Batsford |year=1970 |isbn=0713408561 |location=London |page=[https://archive.org/details/dictionaryofcost0000wilc/page/267 267] |language=en}}</ref> The word "petticoat" came from [[Middle English]] {{lang|enm|pety cote}}<ref>{{Merriam-Webster|petticoat}}</ref> or {{lang|enm|pety coote}},<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.etymonline.com/word/petticoat |title=Origin and meaning of petticoat |website=Online Etymology Dictionary |language=en |access-date=2018-01-29}}</ref> meaning "a small coat/[[cotte|cote]]".<ref>{{Cite book |url= https://archive.org/details/significantetymo00mitcuoft |title=Significant Etymology: Or, Roots, Stems, and Branches of the English Language |last=Mitchell |first=James |publisher=William Blackwood and Sons |year=1908 |pages=[https://archive.org/details/significantetymo00mitcuoft/page/162 162] |language=en}}</ref> ''Petticoat'' is also sometimes spelled "petty coat".{{Sfn|Picken|1957|p=249}} The original petticoat was meant to be seen and was worn with an open gown.<ref name=":1" /> The practice of wearing petticoats as undergarments was well established in England by 1585.{{Sfn|Cunnington|Cunnington|1992|p=49}} In French, petticoats were called {{lang|fr|jupe}}.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=216}} The {{lang|es|basquina}}, worn in [[Spain]], was considered a type of petticoat.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zWYYAQAAMAAJ&q=petticoat+&pg=PA159 |title=A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress, Including Notices of Contemporaneous Fashions on the Continent: A general history of costume in Europe |last=Planché |first=James Robinson |date=1879 |publisher=Chatto and Windus |volume=2 |location=London |pages=158–159 |language=en}}</ref>

The petticoat in western men’s dress, what would become known in later years develop into the [[waistcoat]], was from the mid-15<sup>th</sup> century to around the 17<sup>th</sup> century an under-doublet.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last1=Cumming |first1=Valerie |title=The Dictionary of Fashion History |last2=Cunnington |first2=C. W. |last3=Cunnington |first3=P. E. |publisher=Bloomsbury Academic |year=2017 |isbn=978-1-4725-7770-2 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=205–206}}</ref> The garment was worn in cooler months under a shirt for warmth, and was usually padded or quilted.<ref name=":3" /> 

In the 18th century in Europe and in America, petticoats were an integral component of a gown, considered a part of the exterior garment and were meant to be seen.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=216}} The term petticoat was used to refer to such an outer skirt from the 16<sup>th</sup> to the 19<sup>th</sup> century, which were fashioned from either matching or contrasting textiles, in simple fabrics, or were highly decoratively embroidered.<ref name=":3" /> An underpetticoat was considered an undergarment and was shorter than a regular petticoat.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=216}} Underpetticoats were also known as a ''dickey''.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nJSmCQAAQBAJ&q=petticoat+in+twentieth+century&pg=PT33 |title=Stitches in Time: The Story of the Clothes We Wear |last=Adlington |first=Lucy |date=2015-10-08 |publisher=Random House |isbn=9781473505094 |language=en}}</ref> Also in the [[Thirteen Colonies|American colonies]], working women wore shortgowns ([[bedgown]]s) over petticoats that normally matched in color.{{Sfn|Baumgarten|2002|p=118}} The hem length of a petticoat in the 18th century depended on what was fashionable in dress at the time.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=217}} Often, petticoats had slits or holes for women to reach pockets inside.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=217}} Petticoats were worn by all classes of women throughout the 18th century.{{Sfn|Sholtz|2016|p=218}} The style known as [[Polonaise (clothing)|polonaise]] revealed much of the petticoat intentionally.<ref name=":0" />

In the early 19th century, dresses became narrower and simpler with much less lingerie, including "invisible petticoats".{{Sfn|Cunnington|Cunnington|1992|p=112}} Then, as the [[waltz]] became popular in the 1820s, full-skirted gowns with petticoats were revived in Europe and the United States. 

In the [[Victorian era]], petticoats were cemented as undergarments, used to give bulk and shape to the skirts worn over the petticoat.<ref name=":0" /> By the mid 19th century, petticoats were worn over [[Hoopskirt|hoops]] also known as [[crinoline]].<ref name=":0" /> Popular white cotton petticoats as an undergarment in the 1860s, for example, regularly featured a lace and broderie anglaise decorative border.<ref name=":3" /> As the [[bustle]] became popular in the 1870s, petticoats developed flounces towards the back in order to cater for this style of under structure.{{Sfn|Cunnington|Cunnington|1992|p=196}} Petticoats also continued to be worn in layers through this decade.{{Sfn|Cunnington|Cunnington|1992|p=177}} Coloured petticoats came into fashion by the 1890s,{{Sfn|Cunnington|Cunnington|1992|p=196}} with many being made from silk and featuring decorative frills to the bottom edge.<ref name=":3" />

In the early 20th century, petticoats were circular, had flounces and buttons, in which women could attach additional flounces to the garment.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16885066/the_tipton_daily_tribune/ |title=French Lingerie |date=1965-12-04 |work=The Tipton Daily Tribune |access-date=2018-01-26 |pages=2 |via=Newspapers.com}}</ref> [[Bloomers (clothing)|Bloomers]] were also touted as a replacement for petticoats when working and by fashion reformers.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16885277/edgefield_advertiser/ |title=For the Housewife |date=1902 |work=Edgefield Advertiser |access-date=2018-01-26 |pages=4 |via=Newspapers.com}}</ref>{{Sfn|Cunningham|2003|p=94}}

After [[World War I]], silk petticoats were in fashion.<ref name=":0" />

Petticoats were revived by [[Christian Dior]] in his full-skirted "[[Christian Dior S.A.#The "New Look"|New Look]]" of 1947, and tiered, [[ruffled]], stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular during the 1950s and 1960s.<ref name=":0" /> These were sold in a few clothing stores as late as 1970. 

[[Sybil Connolly]] recalled how a red flannel petticoat, worn by a Connemara woman, inspired her first international fashion collection which took place in New York in 1953.<ref>{{Cite news|title=Sybil Connolly Interview|url=https://www.rte.ie//archives/exhibitions/1922-irish-fashion-designers/495575-sybil-connolly-interview/|access-date=2022-01-20|website=RTÉ Archives|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite news|last=Nemy|first=Enid|date=1998-05-08|title=Sybil Connolly, 77, Irish Designer Who Dressed Jacqueline Kennedy|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1998/05/08/arts/sybil-connolly-77-irish-designer-who-dressed-jacqueline-kennedy.html|access-date=2022-01-20|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> She had travelled to Connemara for inspiration, where she saw a woman wearing a traditional red flannel petticoat. She bought a bolt of the same fabric from the local shop and made it into a quilted evening skirt, which was a huge success at the fashion show.<ref name=":2" /> One of these skirts is part of the collection at [[Hunt Museum|The Hunt Museum]].

== Non-Western petticoats ==
Underskirts worn under non-Western clothing, such as the ''[[ghagra]]'' worn under a [[sari]], are also often called ''petticoats''. Sari petticoats usually match the color of the sari and are made of satin or cotton.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.indiangarment.com/myshop/buyinless/lesspetticoats.php3 |title=Petticoats / Skirts |website=Priyanka's |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20010713085527/http://www.indiangarment.com/myshop/buyinless/lesspetticoats.php3 |archive-date=2001-07-13}}</ref> Compared to the Western petticoat, South Asian petticoats are rarely shorter than ankle length and are always worn from the waist down. They may also be called inner skirts<ref>{{cite web |url=https://glowpink.com/blog/wear-saree-perfectly/ |title=How to wear saree perfectly |website=Glowpink |date=26 March 2015 |access-date=6 June 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180927005532/https://glowpink.com/blog/wear-saree-perfectly/ |archive-date=27 September 2018 |url-status=dead}}</ref> or inskirts.

In Japan, similar to a ''petticoat'', a {{transl|ja|[[nagajuban]]}} (commonly referred to simply as a {{transl|ja|juban}}; a {{transl|ja|hadajuban}} is sometimes worn underneath a {{transl|ja|nagajuban}}) are worn under the [[kimono]] as a form of underwear similar in function to the petticoat. The {{transl|ja|juban}} resembles a shorter kimono, typically without two half-size front panels (the {{transl|ja|okumi}}) and with sleeves only marginally sewn up along the wrist-end. {{transl|ja|Juban}} are commonly made of white silk, though historically were typically made of red silk; as the collar of the {{transl|ja|juban}} shows underneath the kimono and is worn against the skin, a half-collar (a {{transl|ja|han'eri}}) is often sewn to the collar as a protector, and also for decoration. The {{transl|ja|hadajuban}} is sometimes worn underneath the {{transl|ja|juban}}, and resembles a tube-sleeved kimono-shaped top, without a collar, and an accompanying skirt slip.

==In popular culture==
The early feminist [[Mary Wollstonecraft]] was disparaged by [[Horace Walpole]] as a "hyena in petticoats".<ref>{{cite news |last1=Bentley |first1=Toni |title=A 'Hyena in Petticoats' |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/29/books/review/vindication-mary-wollstonecrafts-sense-and-sensibility.html?pagewanted=all |access-date=29 January 2018 |work=The New York Times |date=29 May 2005}}</ref> [[Florentia Sale]] was dubbed "the [[Grenadier]] in Petticoats"<ref>{{citation |author=Hugh Williams |title=Fifty Things You Need to Know About British History |publisher=[[HarperCollins]] |year=2008 |pages=302–303 |isbn=978-0-00-727841-1}}</ref> for travelling with her military husband [[Robert Henry Sale|Sir Robert Henry Sale]] around the [[British Empire]].

The phrase "petticoat government" has referred to women running government or domestic affairs.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/petticoat_government |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180127084206/https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/petticoat_government |url-status=dead |archive-date=January 27, 2018 |title=Definition of petticoat government in English |website=Oxford Dictionaries |access-date=2018-01-26}}</ref> The phrase is usually applied in a positive tone welcoming female governance of society and home, but occasionally is used to imply a threat to "appropriate" government by males, as was mentioned in several of [[Henry Fielding]]'s plays.<ref>Campbell, Jill. ''Natural Masques: Gender and Identity in Fielding's Plays and Novels'', p. 21. Stanford University Press.</ref> An Irish pamphlet ''Petticoat Government, Exemplified in a Late Case in Ireland'' was published in 1780.{{Sfn|Higgins|2010|p=184}} The American writer [[Washington Irving]] used the phrase in [[Rip Van Winkle]] (1819).<ref>"Rip Van Winkle", [http://www.bartleby.com/310/2/1.html p. 60].</ref> [[Frances Trollope]] wrote ''Petticoat Government: A Novel'' in 1850.<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=B-IVAAAAYAAJ&q=%22petticoat+government%22 |title=Petticoat government: A novel, Volume 1 |author=Frances Milton Trollope |year=1850 |publisher=Henry Colburn |access-date=8 August 2011}}</ref> [[Emma Orczy]] wrote ''[[Petticoat Government]]'', another novel, in 1911. [[G. K. Chesterton]] (1874–1936) mentions petticoat in a positive manner; to the idea of female dignity and power in his book ''What's Wrong With the World'' (1910) he states:<ref>{{Cite book |url=http://store.doverpublications.com/0486454274.html |title=What's Wrong With the World |last=Chesterton |first=Gilbert Keith |publisher=Dover Publication |year=2007 |isbn=978-0-486-45427-6 |edition=Unabridged republication of edition: New York : Sheed & Ward, 1952; originally published: 1910 |location=Mineola, New York |pages=111}}</ref>
{{Quote|text=It is quite certain that the skirt means female dignity, not female submission; it can be proved by the simplest of all tests. No ruler would deliberately dress up in the recognized fetters of a slave; no judge would appear covered with [[broad arrow]]s. But when men wish to be safely impressive, as judges, priests or kings, they do wear skirts, the long, trailing robes of female dignity. The whole world is under petticoat government; for even men wear petticoats when they wish to govern.}}

[[President of the United States|President]] [[Andrew Jackson]]'s administration was beset by a scandal called the "[[Petticoat affair]]", dramatized in the 1936 film ''[[The Gorgeous Hussy]]''. A 1943 comedy film called ''[[Petticoat Larceny]]'' (cf. petty [[larceny]]) depicted a young girl being kidnapped by [[Confidence trick|grifters]]. In 1955, [[Iron Curtain]] politics were satirized in a [[Bob Hope]] and [[Katharine Hepburn]] film ''[[The Iron Petticoat]]''. In the same year Western author [[Chester William Harrison]] wrote a short story "Petticoat Brigade" that was turned into the film ''[[The Guns of Fort Petticoat]]'' in 1957. [[Blake Edwards]] filmed a story of an American submarine filled with nurses from the [[Philippines campaign (1941–1942)|Battle of the Philippines]] called ''[[Operation Petticoat]]'' (1959). ''[[Petticoat Junction]]'' was a CBS TV series that aired in 1963.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16884957/the_pensacola_news/ |title=Jerry Lewis Bars Ads; Bea Set for Petticoat Junction |last=Du Brow |first=Rick |date=1963-05-18 |work=The Pensacola News |access-date=2018-01-26 |pages=6 |via=Newspapers.com}}</ref> CBS had another series in the 1966–67 season called ''[[Pistols 'n' Petticoats]]''.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16885066/the_tipton_daily_tribune/ |title=Television in Review |last=Du Brow |first=Rick |date=1965-12-04 |work=The Tipton Daily Tribune |access-date=2018-01-26 |pages=2 |via=Newspapers.com}}</ref>

==See also==
*[[Breeching (boys)]], a historical practice involving the change of dress from petticoat-like garments to trouser-like ones
*[[Crinoline]]s and [[hoop skirt]]s, stiff petticoats made of sturdy material used to extend skirts into a fashionable shape
*[[Peshgeer]]

== References ==
=== Citations ===
<references/>

=== Sources ===
* {{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jSBDlSw_VtMC&pg=PP1|title=What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America|last=Baumgarten|first=Linda|publisher=Yale University Press|year=2002|isbn=9780300095807|location=New Haven}}
* {{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jqTToUwfElQC&q=dresses&pg=PA89|title=Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920: Politics, Health and Art|last=Cunningham|first=Patricia A.|publisher=The Kent State University Press|year=2003|isbn=0873387422|location=Kent, Ohio}}
* {{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PUXDAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA4|title=The History of Underclothes|last1=Cunnington|first1=C. Willett|author-link=Cecil Willett Cunnington|last2=Cunnington|first2=Phillis|author-link2=Phillis Emily Cunnington|publisher=Dover|year=1992|isbn=9780486271248|edition=New}}
* {{Cite book|url=https://muse.jhu.edu/book/1204|title=A Nation of Politicians: Gender, Patriotism, and Political Culture in Late Eighteenth-Century Ireland|last=Higgins|first=Padhraig|publisher=University of Wisconsin Press|year=2010|isbn=9780299233334|language=en|url-access=subscription |via=Project MUSE}}
* {{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dAWYAQAACAAJ&q=the+fashion+dictionary+picken|title=The Fashion Dictionary: Fabric, Sewing, and Dress as Expressed in the Language of Fashion|last=Picken|first=Mary Brooks|publisher=Funk & Wagnalls Company|year=1957|location=New York}}
* {{Cite book|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hDkVCwAAQBAJ&q=petticoat+&pg=PA218|title=Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe|last=Sholtz|first=Mackenzie Anderson|publisher=ABC-CLIO|year=2016|isbn=9781610693103|editor-last=Blanco|editor-first=Jose|volume=1|location=Santa Barbara, California|chapter=Petticoat, 1715-1785|editor-last2=Doering|editor-first2=Mary D.}}

== External links ==
{{Wiktionary}}
{{Commons category|Petticoats}}
* [https://statenisland.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/BC2BB41A-40CE-4164-BBC1-359862839466 Quilted Petticoat, 1750-1790, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database]
* [http://gynocentrism.com/2013/09/19/petticoat-government-1702-2/ Petticoat-Government in a Letter to the Court Lords (1702)]

{{Historical clothing|state=expanded}}
{{Lingerie}}
[[:Կատեգորիա:Medieval European costume]]
[[:Կատեգորիա:16th-century fashion]]
[[:Կատեգորիա:17th-century fashion]]
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[[:Կատեգորիա:19th-century fashion]]
[[:Կատեգորիա:20th-century fashion]]
[[:Կատեգորիա:Western wear]]
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